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Model reference: 279171
A 28 mm Lady-Datejust in steel and Everose gold with a mother-of-pearl dial, stone markers, a fluted rose-gold bezel and a two-tone five-link bracelet.
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About this watch
The 28 mm Lady-Datejust is the smallest case in this collection, and almost everything about how it reads comes from that. The dial opening is narrow, so the fluted bezel and the printed outer track take a larger share of the visible face, and the markers sit close to the ring rather than in open space.
The dial here is mother-of-pearl, a material whose surface shifts tone as the light moves across it — quite different from a lacquered dial in the same colour. The frames in the gallery show that shift, the fluted bezel beside it, the diamond-set markers, and the case back, where the two-metal construction of this reference becomes obvious.
Mother-of-pearl is a natural material, so its colour comes from the way light passes through layers of it rather than from a pigment. The result is a surface that changes tone with the angle: in the straight-on frame here the dial reads dark with a green-grey cast, and in the close-up frame the same surface shows pink and silver highlights around the markers.
That behaviour makes photographs unreliable as a colour reference. Two frames of the same dial taken seconds apart can look like two different dials, which is why the close-up exists on this page alongside the straight-on view. Judge the dial by the range it shows, not by a single frame.
Stone-set markers are not printed: they are individual stones in metal settings, and in these frames each one sits proud of the surface and catches the light from several directions at once. On a 28 mm dial that matters more than on a larger one, because each marker occupies a bigger proportion of the face.
The layout keeps a clear hierarchy: twelve positions are marked, the date replaces one of them at three o’clock, and the lettering is printed between the centre and the upper markers. Reading the dial in daylight is easy; the markers are ornaments rather than luminous elements, so what the dial does in low light is a question for the individual watch.
The bezel, the winding crown and the narrow centre links are rose-gold toned, while the case flanks, the outer bracelet links and the case back are silver-tone. The case-back frame shows the contrast most plainly, because the back and the sides are visible in the same shot.
Two-tone in a bracelet like this is a construction choice as much as a colour choice: the outer links carry most of the wear and the centre links carry the colour. When you compare this with a full-gold Lady-Datejust in the same collection, the difference is not just the amount of gold but where on the watch it sits.
The fluting is a ring of ridges, each one turning from bright to dark as the angle changes. On a small case the bezel represents a larger share of the total silhouette than it does on a 41 mm reference, so the effect is proportionally stronger: the outline of the watch is largely the outline of the fluted ring.
The bezel is also where the gold tone is concentrated on this reference. That is why the fluted ring reads as the warm element of the design while the dial shifts through its own range of tones underneath it.
Twenty-eight millimetres is the smallest diameter in this collection, and it changes the proportions rather than just the scale: the dial becomes a smaller proportion of the whole, and the case sits flatter against the wrist. In the frames the case is visibly compact beside the five-link bracelet.
Fit still comes down to numbers: ask for the lug-to-lug length, the case thickness and the number of links fitted. Then check how the bracelet is sized, because with narrower links a single removed link changes the fit more than it would on a larger bracelet.
Three things decide the experience. First, the dial: because mother-of-pearl varies, ask for a straight-on photograph in daylight of the dial on the watch you would receive. Second, the fit: bracelet length as supplied and the adjustment left in the clasp. Third, the finish: what the bezel and the bracelet’s gold parts are actually made from, and whether anything is plated over them.
Those answers, together with the reference 279171, keep the conversation anchored to a specific watch rather than to a model name. Everything else — the layout, the marker positions, the fluting — is already visible in the frames on this page.
Specification
| Detail | Description |
|---|---|
| Model reference | 279171 |
| Model size | 28 mm |
| Dial | Mother-of-pearl, with stone-set markers |
| Hour-marker layout | Twelve marked positions, with the date replacing the marker at 3 o’clock |
| Date display | 3 o’clock, under a magnifying lens |
| Bezel design | Fluted, with a warm gold tone in the photographs |
| Bracelet design | Five-link, two-tone: narrow rose-gold centre links between silver-tone outer links |
| Clasp | Concealed folding clasp inside the bracelet |
| Colour combination | Mother-of-pearl dial, rose-gold bezel and centre links, silver-tone case flanks and outer links |
Questions
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