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Model reference: 279138RBR-0015
A 28 mm Lady-Datejust in yellow gold with a stone-set bezel, a mother-of-pearl dial set with stone markers and a three-piece bracelet with a concealed clasp.
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About this watch
Here the case, bezel and bracelet are all the same gold, and the stones provide the contrast instead of a second metal. The bezel is a continuous ring of round stones, and the dial is mother-of-pearl set with stone markers, so the dial and the ring around it both change appearance as the light moves.
The frames in the gallery work from the whole watch to the parts: the straight-on view where the two stone rings are visible together, the angled view where the bezel stones pick up individual highlights, the dial close-up where the surface pattern of the mother-of-pearl shows, and the case-side view with the crown.
The dial reads silver-white with a faint colour shift towards the edges, and in the close-up frame the surface shows the fine directional pattern of the material rather than a flat tint. That pattern is why the dial changes appearance as the watch moves, and why two photographs of the same dial can look different.
Because this dial is set with stone markers as well, there are two kinds of light on the face at once: the soft, continuous glow of the material and the hard points of the set stones. That combination is the reason this configuration reads brighter than a plain gold-and-black watch of the same size.
Because the case and bracelet are the same colour as the bezel, the stones are the only element that breaks the gold up. The bezel therefore reads as a brighter band around the dial rather than as a contrast between two metals — the opposite arrangement to a two-tone reference in the same collection, where the colour contrast does the work.
This makes the way the bezel is set worth inspecting closely. Ask for photographs of the ring in sections rather than one frame, so any stone that sits differently or reads a different colour is visible.
Three pieces run across the width, with a row of rounded centre links between two flat outer rows, and the clasp disappears inside the bracelet so the pattern is unbroken. The case-side frame shows the end links where the bracelet meets the case, which is also the area where the lugs and the first link decide how the watch sits.
On a gold bracelet the fit is adjusted by removing links rather than with a visible buckle. Ask how many links are fitted, whether spares come with the watch, and how much adjustment remains.
On the smallest case in this collection the bezel is proportionally a larger part of the whole watch, and so is the marker ring on the dial. The stones therefore take up more of the visual field than they would on a 36 mm or 41 mm reference with the same bezel treatment.
For fit, ask for the lug-to-lug length, the thickness and the number of links as supplied, and compare those with a watch you already wear. Narrow-link bracelets change fit in small steps, so exact bracelet length matters more here than on a larger watch.
Four checks cover most of it: whether every position is filled, whether any stone is chipped or reads a different colour from the others, whether the stones sit evenly in their settings, and whether the setting has been repaired at any point. A close-up of each section of the bezel answers all four.
Ask who set the stones as well. On a watch with two sets of stones — the bezel and the dial markers — the two are not necessarily the same grade, and that is a supply question rather than something a photograph can settle.
Both references are 28 mm Lady-Datejust models with stone-set dial markers. This one is gold through the case and bracelet with a stone-set bezel, while the other is a two-tone reference with a fluted bezel — so the differences are the metal arrangement and what the bezel does with the light.
If you are choosing between them, put the two straight-on frames side by side. If the reference matters more than the impression, 279138RBR-0015 and the other reference number will keep the conversation unambiguous.
Specification
| Detail | Description |
|---|---|
| Model reference | 279138RBR-0015 |
| Model size | 28 mm |
| Dial | Mother-of-pearl, set with stone markers |
| Hour-marker layout | Set stone markers around the dial, replaced by the date at 3 o’clock |
| Date display | 3 o’clock, under a magnifying lens |
| Bezel design | Set with a continuous row of round stones in gold |
| Bracelet design | Three-piece with semi-circular centre links, gold tone throughout |
| Clasp | Concealed inside the bracelet, so the link pattern is unbroken |
| Colour combination | Gold case and bracelet with a mother-of-pearl dial and stone-set bezel |
Questions
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