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Model reference: 5712/1R-001
A 40 mm Nautilus in rose gold with a brown sunburst dial and a black-gradient rim, carrying the date by hand, moon phases, a power-reserve sector and small seconds.
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About this watch
This is the Nautilus 5712/1R-001, a 40 mm travel-time calendar whose dial is deliberately out of balance: the date is read by a small hand, the moon phase and small seconds share the lower part of the dial, and the power reserve sits in the upper-left corner. The reference data records a case 8.52 mm thick, measured 40 mm across from 10 to 4 o’clock, with a screw-down crown and a sapphire display back.
The four frames below work through the design in order — the dial straight on, the case and dial at an angle, the movement through the case back, and the clasp and strap edge-on. What only the individual watch can answer — the movement fitted in it, the metal of the piece offered, the band supplied with it and its water-resistance state — is raised in the WhatsApp conversation rather than stated here.
The dial is deliberately off-centre. In the upper-left corner a sector tracks the remaining power reserve, scaled 48 down to 24 in the photographs. The lower half of the dial carries the moon-phase aperture with the date numerals printed around it and read by a small hand, while small seconds sit in their own register to the right. There is no date window at three.
Reading it takes a moment at first: the hour and minute hands pass over the reserve sector in the upper left, and the date hand is the shortest of the three. Whether the reserve sector falls as the watch runs, whether the moon phase advances and whether the date steps cleanly are all observable in a short video of the actual watch, and that video is the thing to request.
The dial is documented as brown with a sunburst finish under a black-gradient rim, and the frames behave that way: the brown reads lightest where the light strikes the centre of the ribbed surface and darkens toward the edge until the rim looks near-black. The straight-on frame shows the grooves and the darker border together; the angled frame shows the same surface with more light across it.
That is also why the colour is easy to misjudge in a single photograph, since the same dial reads differently in daylight and under a lamp. The finish sits on the metal beneath the print, so the light decides which part of the dial you are looking at. Ask for a daylight photograph of the dial straight on and at an angle, plus a short video, before you compare it with another watch.
The calendar side of this reference is hand-set rather than quick-set: the date is read by a hand against printed numerals and the moon phase sits in its own aperture, so moving the date past a short month and setting the moon phase are both done by hand. Whether a correction tool comes with the offered watch, and what the seller’s setting procedure is, are the first two things to establish.
Sequence also matters when it is done by hand: the usual practice is to move the hands clear of the changeover before touching the date, and never to force a jumper if it resists. The reference data records a 3.99 mm movement inside a case 8.52 mm thick, which is where the thinness of the watch comes from. Ask to see the date stepping and the moon phase advancing on video.
The 40 mm figure is the case measured across from 10 to 4 o’clock rather than straight across, which is how this case shape is quoted, and the same reference is 8.52 mm thick. A thin case under a wide, flat bezel spreads the watch across the wrist instead of standing up on it, so it wears wider than the diameter alone suggests.
Diameter will not answer the fit by itself. Lug-to-lug length decides whether the case reaches past the wrist, and the weight of the piece decides how it carries through a day — neither is published for the offered watch, so ask for both measured on it. Your wrist circumference in centimetres, taken with a tape, is the number worth sending with the question.
The straight-on frame settles the dial colour and where the four reads sit. The angled frame shows the case profile and the crown on the right. The case-back frame shows the movement through the sapphire back with the winding weight lying over the plates. The last frame shows the clasp closed and the strap edge-on, with the thin case and the crown on the flank.
None of them identify the movement fitted, the metal of the offered piece, the band that will be supplied, or the water-resistance state as delivered. Note also that the watch in the frames is on a brown strap rather than the bracelet the reference is catalogued with, and a clear protective film is still over the clasp. Those points are questions for the seller, not conclusions to draw from a picture.
Where a time-and-date Nautilus carries three hands and a date window at three, this dial carries four separate reads and no window at all: power reserve, moon phase, date by hand and small seconds. That is the visible difference between the references, and it is the one that changes how the dial looks from every angle.
Case material and the band are the other axis. This reference is documented in rose gold with a matching bracelet, whereas the frames here show a gold-toned case worn on a brown strap. If you are comparing versions, compare the actual pieces: ask which Nautilus references are on hand, what each is fitted with, and what the case and band of each one are made from.
Specification
| Detail | Description |
|---|---|
| Model reference | 5712/1R-001 |
| Model size | 40 mm, measured from 10 to 4 o’clock |
| Dial | Brown sunburst with a black-gradient rim, horizontally ribbed |
| Dial print | Brand and city lettering above the centre |
| Hour-marker layout | Applied baton-style markers, with white luminescent coating |
| Hand arrangement | Rounded baton hour and minute hands, both lumed |
| Subdial layout | Power-reserve sector upper left, small seconds to the right |
| Bezel design | Wide flat bezel, softly rounded octagonal outline |
| Colour combination | Brown dial with a black-gradient rim, in a gold-toned case on a brown strap |
| Bracelet shown | Brown strap in the photographs, not the reference’s bracelet |
| Clasp | Folding clasp, with a clear protective film over it |
| Case back | Sapphire display back, movement visible through it |
| Crown | Screw-down crown on the case flank (reference design) |
| Case thickness (reference design) | 8.52 mm |
| Movement (reference design) | Self-winding calibre 240 PS IRM C LU, 3.99 mm high |
Questions
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Six frames that answer more than a long description: daylight dial, bezel straight on, bracelet closed, clasp, case back and a short video of the moving parts.
Read the guide →A practical guide to model references, measurements, materials and the questions to ask when comparing watches.
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