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Model reference: 116234-0141
A 36 mm Datejust with a blue Roman-numeral dial, a fluted white-gold bezel, the date under its magnifier and a five-link bracelet with a concealed clasp.
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About this watch
Roman numerals change a dial before any colour does. Instead of a ring of separate points, the hour positions become applied shapes with individual widths, so the eye reads a continuous sequence around the face rather than a set of marks. On a 36 mm dial each numeral occupies a larger share of the ring, which is why the effect is stronger here than on a 41 mm reference.
The gallery moves from that straight-on view to the angled one, where the fluted bezel breaks the light into alternating ridges, and then to a close-up of the bezel and crown. This reference is the earlier generation of the 36 mm Datejust in this collection; the later one is a separate model, so the two pages are kept apart deliberately.
Each numeral is an applied piece with its own width: I is a narrow stroke while VIII is broad, so the ring alternates between tight and open in a fixed rhythm. That is the opposite of baton markers, which divide the dial evenly and leave the space between them consistent.
The sequence is also interrupted twice on this dial. The coronet sits where XII would be, and the date aperture takes the place of III, so the reading runs from the top mark clockwise to the window and then continues. That interruption is part of the design rather than a missing element, and it is the detail most worth checking straight on.
On this reference the fluted bezel is in white gold while the case and the bracelet are steel. Visually the two metals sit in the same silver-tone family, so the bezel does not announce itself through colour; it announces itself through shape, because the fluting turns the case outline into a ring of alternating bright and dark ridges.
That is visible in the close-up frame, where the flutes occupy most of the image. When inspecting an individual watch, this is also where unevenness or polishing marks show up first, so it is worth asking for that view of the offered piece.
The blue is a brushed surface that runs outward from the centre, so it lightens as the viewing angle moves away from the middle and darkens when the watch is held flat on. In the straight-on frame the colour is even; in the angled frame the outer part of the dial is noticeably lighter than the inner part.
Colour comparisons are safest between frames of the same watch, which is why this page shows two views of the same dial rather than one. Where an exact tone matters, ask for a daylight photograph of the dial on the specific watch.
Five narrow links run across the width, and the clasp folds into the bracelet so that no buckle is visible from the outside; the link pattern continues unbroken. That construction is why the bracelet in these frames looks like a continuous band rather than a strap with a fastening.
The practical consequence is that fit is adjusted by removing links instead of by a visible buckle, and that the clasp area is where wear shows first. Ask how many links are fitted, whether spares come with the watch, and how much adjustment remains.
Thirty-six millimetres sits between the 28 mm and 31 mm cases at the small end of this collection and the 41 mm case at the large end. On the wrist the difference is not only width: a smaller case makes the bezel and the dial ring proportionally larger relative to the whole watch.
Use the diameter together with the lug-to-lug length and the thickness, then compare with a watch you already wear. A five-link bracelet follows the curve of the wrist closely, so the case sits differently from the same size on a three-link bracelet.
The 36 mm Datejust exists in more than one generation, and this page covers the earlier 116234 reference. If the generation matters to you, compare the reference numbers directly: the later 36 mm model in this collection is a different reference with its own page, and the two should be discussed separately.
Beyond that, the checks are the usual ones for a steel watch with a gold bezel: what the bezel is made from and whether it is plated, the bracelet length as supplied, the condition of the crystal and the magnifier, and the measured weight and dimensions of the actual watch.
Specification
| Detail | Description |
|---|---|
| Model reference | 116234-0141 |
| Model size | 36 mm |
| Dial | Blue, with an outward-brushed finish |
| Hour-marker layout | Applied Roman numerals, with the coronet at 12 and the date at 3 |
| Date display | 3 o’clock, under a magnifying lens |
| Bezel design | Fluted, warm-white metal tone in the photographs |
| Bracelet design | Five-link, silver-tone throughout in the photographs |
| Clasp | Concealed inside the bracelet, leaving the link pattern unbroken |
| Colour combination | Blue dial and silver-tone case and bracelet with a fluted bezel |
Questions
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